Monday, April 4, 2016

SE Asia Adventure: Part 2 - Siem Reap, Cambodia

Aloha All,

Cambodia has been on my travel bucket list since 1986 when we lived in Singapore and Cambodia was "off limits" for travel.   Second reason was Angkor Wat also a bucket list item.  I have visited so many UNESCO world heritage sites  ( Egypt, Greece, India, Italy, Indonesia, Nicaragua, Peru and even UKRAINE to name a few) that Angkor Wat was high on the list to visit.  Like many world heritage sites, Angkor Wat is fabulous as other the other ancient temples we visited in Siem Reap, Cambodia.



SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA
First:  a map of the area.   We flew from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia, just about an hour flight on Vietnam air.
Map from Google Maps
And once we landed, the first thing we did was go eat lunch.  Talk about a great first impression of Cambodia… the food was delicious.  1) Shredded papaya salad – the beer was extra.  2) Pumpkin soup in the green leaf holder, chicken satay, a few grill shrimp.


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3) Morning glory flower salad ( like fried zucchini flowers  4) Cool beer prices in US $!!!  

The Cambodian Riel (pronounced real ---  like real money…. everyone else’s is fake) is 4,000 riels to $1.  So the Tiger $3 beer in riels was 12,000 Riels!  (Just wait until I write about Vietnamese Dong….)  US$ are accepted all over Cambodia, so I never needed to exchange money.  When I did buy things, I received “riel money” in change.

After the delicious welcome lunch, we proceeded to our hotel and then prepared for dinner and an evening of Cambodian dance.  I was worried it was a tourist thing, but no… GREAT performances and colorful.

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Angkor Thom

The first temple site we visited was Angkor Thom.   Information from Wikipedia:  The city of Angkor Thom was founded by Angkor's greatest king, Jayavarman VII (reigned 1181-1219), who came to power following the defeat of the former Khmer capital by the Chams.  At its height, Angkor Thom may have governed a population of one million people in the surrounding area. Angkor Thom was built in a nearly perfect square, the sides of which run north to south and east to west.

There is a moat around Angkor Thom, with an impressive bridge.  The entrance gate to Angkor Thom, after the bridge, is only wide enough for small touring vans! 

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The Moat
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The Bridge into the site.  The gate at the far end is only wide enough for very small vans
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Close up of the statues on the bridge across the moat
   
The entrance gate


Zoom in on the face on the gate




The other side of the gate
Angkor Thom - view from the side


The temple was built in 1185.    Below are scenes from the mural, carved into the exterior wall of the temple.  The scenes depict the battles of the Khmer vs Champa peoples for control of the Siem Reap area.  Check out the alligators (or crocodiles), fish, pigs and water buffaloes in the carvings.    










Playing Chess


Structures and carvings inside the temple proper
  
The Terrace of  Elephants


The Garuda Wall outside the temple proper, next to the Terrace of Elephants
Ta Prohm
After the visit to Angkor Thom, we drove on to another older temple site, Ta Prohm.  What is amazing about this site, is it was totally covered by the jungle, abandoned and neglected for centuries. The French and Indian Governments have done work on the site to stabilize the ruins and maintain the condition of "apparent neglect" A conscious decision made in the early 21st century is to leave Ta Prohm as it is, as an imposing structure that has merged with the jungle.  


The temple site map


An example of one of the many trees that has grown into the temple walls



 
 




Caroline and travel pal, Pat, at Ta Prohm
 


This wall has been reconstructed--- see the crane on the right side of the photo.
Photo below shows the ruins on other exterior walls of the temple!

After visiting Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm, we took a break- lunch and swimming- as it was 105 F outside. We visited Angkor Wat in the later afternoon- a) to beat the heat and b) to catch take photos of the site closer to sunset.

Angkor Wat

Things to know about Angkor Wat:  It is the largest religious monument in the world! It is originally a Hindu temple dedicated to the god, Vishnu, has five (5) central towers, and in the 14th century was converted to a Buddhist shrine and remains a Buddhist shrine today.

Entrance to Angkor Wat, across the moat


Lions that guard the entrance


The entrance




My photo of the five central towers - and the reflection


C on the steps of the one of the side entrance to the site
One of the side porticos/entrances


A portion of the walkways between the side entrances.  The murals (photos below) are on the inside walls




The sheen on these murals comes from the centuries of visitors touching the walls


The murals along the walls of the temple.  This mural is the longest single mural in the world as it goes around all four walls of the temple.


The photos below show our climb from the "ground floor" to the middle sections and upper levels of the interior of Angkor Wat. No hand railings on any of the stairwells.



The view from the stairs- looking back to the ground floor"



 Looking up to the interior towers

  A guard's child resting on the stairs
 The stairwell to the very top portion of the temple

 Looking up to the top



On the top level looking out toward the entrance to the temple site


 On the top looking down at the gates and architectural detail

 Looking down to one of the corners
 The courtyard of the top layer of Angkor Wat

Photos below are from the walk out of the complex- past the monastery, past two library buildings, past the "vendors" and back across the bridge over the moat.
The exterior walls and corridor




Angkor Wat




Travel pals- we actually made it to Angkor Wat. 
 Photos of the two library buildings




Looking back across the moat.
Amazing Temple sites and a must see!  

After a day of glorious architectural sites, a visit to the night markets - another side of Cambodian life - seemed in order.  Night markets are much more fun when you have a travel pal to share the adventure.  My travel pal Pat had to try the night cap taste treat of a scorpion and then a tarantula.  After that, we both had our feet scrapped and cleaned by fish- not minnow fish but big 6 inch specials.  Two Dollars ($2) buys you 20 minutes in the tank with the fish AND a free beer- I would have preferred something stronger than beer!  Photos will prove I did it, but I was NOT charmed.

 




The assortment of after dinner specials!


Pat, friends Dan and Jocelyn with their tarantulas. Yes, that is a tarantual tail sticking out of Dan's mouth.  So glad I was the photographer
After these tasty treats, we moved on the to the fish tanks.....and free beer.....


Pat enjoying every moment
 
 Living proof I did this!
The fish surround your feet and just much away


I was NOT charmed


The fish cleaning Pat's feet
Our second day in Siem Reap was a venture into the countryside for an oxcart ride and then a boat trip to see the floating houses on Tonle Sap Lake.

Country side







Water buffalo 


The ox cart park sign


The barber shop- the barber was taking a nap


Ox Cart Crossing sign
 The boat dock area


 The boat dock and launching area

Pushing off- The egg beater in the back is the motor




Leaving the shore


Pat and other tour friends on our boat


The waterway out to the Tonle Sap Lake houses
Fisherman on the lake


The school buildings on the lake


Going to market - I think a form of  squash in the boat




Looking back on the floating houses




School children paddling home from school


School children paddling home from school

Quite something, these floating homes that sit on bamboo.  As the lake rises, the homes are moved closer to the temple.  As the water recedes in the dry season, the homes move where the water is.  Some of the homes had solar panels, fresh water for hygiene is brought in.  Food crops are grown "hydroponically".  Pigs and chickens and crocodiles live in cages, also on bamboo rafts- part of "home".

All our buses had curtains and interesting window decor --- whether Thailand, Cambodia or Vietnam.
  

After our tour of the Floating homes, we returned to Siem Reap for one last excellent Cambodian lunch.
Grilled shrimps with garlic, cilantro and green peppercorns.  Delicious.




Grilled Beef Satay, shrimp, mung beans and red chilis
After Lunch, we flew from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) aka Saigon, Vietnam.


Hope you enjoy Part 2 - Siem Reap.  Next blog will be about Vietnam. 
Mahalo for reading the blog.